Alpibike2005 - from Forni Avoltri to Madonna di Campiglio

On Monday 25th July, I set out again, along the Carnic Alps, and on my way meet many interesting people: at first, the cheese-makers of ‘Casera Vecchia’.

I get there, while the two workers start preparing the ‘Montasio’ (a typical cheese here). They have just finished boiling the milk with the rennet and are putting it in cotton clothes, and laying down vatted cheese to mature.  Then, the water in which cheese has been boiled is used, after a second boiling, to make the ‘ricotta’ (buttermilk curd): indeed, the name ‘ricotta’ in Italian means ‘twice-boiled’.

Once I have gone beyond the source of the Piave,

I get to ‘Casera Melin’, where I meet four nice German bikers (two men and two women), being on a seven-day journey. So, we spend the whole evening talking - half in Italian and half in English, as I don’t speak German - about travelling by bike.

Now, after meeting people, it’s time to meet animals! some marmots are whistling, while I go up towards the Silvella Pass.

The fog surrounds me at intervals, making me enter an irreal world, but later, I reach San Candido under a warm sun....

The natural beauty of this part of Italy, the Pusteria Valley (which I cycle trough only in a small part, along the nice cycling path) is enhanced by the admirable way the inhabitants take care of it.

The Youth Hostel is made from the former Gran Hotel where Gustav Mahler stayed, too!  Why have youth hostels to be bad? This one offers excellent and cheap accommodation.....

At Dobbiaco, the Carnic Alps end. Now, I enter the Dolomites:, the legs in the Dolomites are going to be the hardest ones,  just like in the Giro d’Italia.

I start traversing the Dolomites or ‘Monti Pallidi’ (‘Pale Mountains’: this name cames from the pale white of their rocks), cycling on the first day in the mythical Kingdom of Fanes: after three long ascents, with 20% slope (passed obviously on foot!), I reach the Rifugio Scotoni.

These are magic places for biking: the ones where the Mith of the Fanes was born. The legend tells the story of King Laurino, who changed his garden of roses into the Catinaccio (whose German name is just Rosengarten), etc... Carlo Felice Wolff wrote with a poetic soul, about the Mith of Fanes, in his well-known books.

On the following day, hard paths enable me to pass the legendary Sella and Gardena Passes, almost without using any asphalt road.

The third day in the Dolomites is the most beautiful one. The sky blue is unbelievable, while we’re going towards the Rifugio Bolzano.

I’ve written ‘we’, because I’m not alone anymore. My friend Luisa has joined me. She’s is without any knapsack and helps me very much carry my luggage up the steps climbing on the Denti di Terrarossa.

The vast panorama over the Alpe di Siusi is going to be one of the most beautiful of the whole Alps.

Bolzano Hut where I stay overnight was built in 1885. Since then, its original structure was left unchanged and the hut is a jewel of the alpine architecture at the time of the Habsbourgh Empire. Now, it has a magnificent dining hall, and even small single rooms!

At sunset, the view from the top of Monte Pez of the Alpe di Siusi, the Sassolungo, the Catinaccio, the Latemar is enchanted.

The descent towards the Valley of the Isarco is steep and not to cycle, but beautiful anyway: one crosses a ravine, walking on foot-bridges. Further on along some forest roads I get to Fiè allo Sciliar. From here, along an asphalt road I come down to the Valley of the Autobrennero.

Here, a cycle path takes me first to Bolzano and then to Caldaro. It is hot. The Mendola Funicular - a real ‘museum piece’ - allows me to avoid the ascent along the heavy traffic-asphalt road. This small help from a not-polluting means of transport  is very welcome.

At the pass, Andrea Torregiani - a member of the SAT (Società Alpina Tridentina) of Cles - is waiting for me. He very kindly puts me up at Cles, where we get after visiting the Sanctuary of St. Romedio.

In the evening, I meet other CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) members from Cles and Tuenno at the festival “dei Portoni”. I explain it: in every doorway of Tuenno the local associations have set up gastronomic stand. It so happens that the Alpine Rescue stand is the most visited!

On the following day, these friends join me. We go up towards the Lake Tovel and aim at clambering over the Dolomiti di Brenta and going down towards Campiglio. But the weather gets bad. We reach Malga Pozzol under the rain, then we give up our plans and get to Campiglio along the usual road.

These very nice people have filled the grey and raining Sunday with fun. I have a puncture for the fourth time. Indeed, I’ll have to come back and check the Tovel-Campiglio crossing.

On Saturday 30th July, la ‘Gazzetta dello Sport’ - the most popular sport daily in Italy - devotes an whole page of its weekly dossier Dossier to Alpibike 2005.

The picture of the Sassolungo, Cinque Dita e Sassopiatto they have chosen, for the article, seems to me the most suitable, as I have cycled by their sides, just the day before.

An other week is over. A quarter of the travel has been completed. So far, my experience has been wonderful. And I’m sure my journey is going to be full of other surprises.

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Clubs and associations may contact the author for slides conference in English language about Alpibike2005 writing an e-mail to contatti.alpibike@bike8000.it   .