Alpibike2005 - from Madonna di Campiglio to Dongo

I began pedalling 3 weeks ago, and I’ve already completed 21 legs, so I can take a well-deserved day of rest on the beautiful shore of Lake Como.

Over the last 7 wonderful days, I have cycled alone from Campiglio to Dongo. The weather hasn’t always been a friend with me: it was raining - with showers - at Rabbi and cold at Livigno and at St. Moritz. 

Clambering over from the Val di Sole to Val Venosta has been very demanding.

Rain has stopped me at Rabbi. But, here I’ve had the chance of meeting the very nice parish group from Carpaneto Piacentino, which is the village where I’ve spent the first five years of my life.

It has been a pleasant evening:  I’ve had dinner with them, and listened to the children talking about their today’s exciting experience with the Alpine Guides. They had tried the Tibetan bridge, the abseiling and the ‘shiver’ of climbing.

On the following day, the good weather has allowed me to pass (and I’ve found it difficult) the ridge of the Val d’Ultimo, looking up to deutsch pretty bike-girls,

but then the front wheel has started ‘being naughty’ again and so I have gone down to Lana.

Afterwards, going by the reborn Val Venosta Railway, I reach Prato allo Stelvio, where Mr Randi - avery skilled mechanic - solves my problem. I was half a day late, but in this way I made it up.

The Pass of Stelvio and Cima Coppi of the Giro d’Italia - a mythical ascents  for every cyclist - are coming now! I want to go up to the top by as many dirt roads as possible, and I succeed, by staying on the north side of the valley.

On my way to the Berghotel Franzenshoe, there are both the majestic wiew of the Ortles and some troublesome light rain!

At the Berghotel someone steals my old bikeglasses. So, on the following day - without any glasses - I ascend the last 7 kms, and 22 harpin bends of the legendary road.

Once I’ve got an new pair of glasses, the dirt paths of the Bike Race ‘Maratona dei Parchi’, lead me - against the northern wind and under a cobalt-blue sky - to Livigno, the tax-free land.

From here, another tiring passage  - at an altitude of 2694 metres - 

makes me enter the beautiful Engadina in order to reach, along the Swiss enjoyable cycling paths, St. Moritz, the elegant holyday resort.

Here, I see the well-known ‘Glacier Express’ : its red panoramic carriages take the tourists along the most daring railway of Europe, from Tirano to Zermatt, at the foot of the Cervino (next time I’m taking the train too!...).

I sleep in the confortable Hostel, located near the lake, together with guests from all over the world. There are also some Japanese with their children. S. Moritz is an internationally well-known and cosmopolitan resort... It is worth visiting in winter, its ski slopes are famous for being wonderful.

Then I go on. I find some light rain again. It is bad and cold weather again. There is a temperature of about 6 degrees centigrade at the Pass of Maloja. I hurry up to descent - dressed as an alpinist in a himalayan expedition - towards the warmer lands of Alto Lario. Here the sun comes out again.

But there is no rest: the awful ascent towards the village of Codera is waiting for me. This is a village located in the Codera Valley, called the ‘valley without roads’.

One gets there from Novate Mezzola only taking a mule-track of 3000 steps. Imagine how comfortable it is raising on them my bike and its total weight of 30 kilos!

I still wonder how I’ve succeeded in getting to the comfortable Codera Inn at 8.15 p.m. (welcome as a Mars green man!!!). I hear of the problems of the small local community, compelled to use the helicopter as a public means of transport.

Indeed, a number of people would like to have a road built, even though their land would not be so fascinating anymore. Furthermore, I understand I could have sent by elitaxi my bike and luggage and spent little money too.

The last leg before Dongo is great: I cycle through the ‘tracciolino’, a lane made by an electrical company  over the years 1930-36, for the maintenace of the gutter tunnel, draining the waters of the Codera Valley and pouring them into the artificial  basin of the Valley of Ratti, nearby. This is an incredible lane one metre (or even less) wide - at a steady altitude of 910 metres - hanging over frightening abysses. Luckily,  there  is  a  shelter,  otherwise I  wouldn’t  feel  like passing through it, riding my byke...

Road tunnels, bends and sudden changes of view complete the fascination of the road line, which I ‘conquer’ only after an hard work, because of the approaching ascents.

I have a short chat with the dike caretaker. He lives in a lonely house, built at the end of the ‘Tracciolino’. He’s a cyclist too, but just for ‘professional’ reasons. I mean that he goes from home to the hydro-electric plants by a funny ‘four-wheel bicycle’ weightening 50 kilos: indeed, there is someone who has got an heavier bike than me!

Anyway all the spells break (Do you remember Cinderella?). So i go down to the valley, where my friends from the CAI of Dongo are waiting for me. They are so nice and I spend pleasant hours with them. And I enjoy an unforgettable view over the Lake Como from the terrace of of the very kind Mr. Mario Calzoni. (better than George Clooney’s villa!).

By for now. See you within 10 legs: next time I’m writing the account of my journey at the foot of the Cervino.

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Clubs and associations may contact the author for slides conference in English language about Alpibike2005 writing an e-mail to contatti.alpibike@bike8000.it   .