Alpibike2005 from Valtournanche to Ceresole Reale

I leave Valtournanche, after giving a public lecture on my journey and having got some news about an old friend of mine, at the time when I was living in Milan and attending the secondary and high school, in the 70s, (more that 30 years ago!). Now he lives in California. I wonder if I’ll go pedalling over there, sooner or later! 
I follow the asphalt road towards Cervinia, because I have no other alternative. But it is lunch time, and the road is almost deserted. I get so the Lake Perriere, and from here a very beautiful, horizontal lane - where once there was a decauville raylway - takes me to the power station of Maen. At last, a steep path makes me go up to the Lake Cignana and the Barnasse Hut. This is an enchanting place on the shore of a romantic - artificial, but very harmonious - lake. 
One can enjoy a nice view of the Cervino, from up here. But today the mountain is partially hidden behind the clouds, due to the very changeable weather. Over the last few days there were a lot of showers in this area, but, luckily, it has always happens when I was indoors. The hut is run by the three Barmasse Sisters and the food is excellent.
On the following day, a long and pleasant way - along some not steep forest lanes - takes me from the Barmasse hut to Lignan. from the road, one can enjoy great views of the Mount Cervino, the Mount Emilius, the Mount Gran Paradiso and the city of Aosta. 
And the connections - which follow one another on the road - make the stretch very varied here. 
Since the forecasted atmospheric disturbance has come, my last fews kms of the day are under the rain.
I need a day of rest. In fact I wish to visit the Astronomic Observatory of the Valle d’Aosta and enjoy Mrs. Piera’s cooking at the Hostel and have a rest after a ‘tris’ of passes at 2.700 metres (Olen, Bettaforca, Nanaz). In the evening, I enjoy the concert of the Capriccio Clarinetto Orchestra, a group of excellent Dutch musicians, who are performing in the Valleé. And I find out that 6 different clarinet sizes exist!
On Sunday 20th August, I wake up and - to my great surprise - I see all the tops of the mountains covered with the snow fallen at night. It is cold now, and I like that. I go up to the Observatory, which was built here, because the area is sunny (but not today!) and clear of lights all around. Mr. Paolo Calcidese, a very kind astronomer, allows me to use his PC and download my digital camera. He is from Milan, is fond of biking, just like me, and lives at night, in order to take photographs of stars. What a lucky fellow! 
I spend my free time, doing the washing, repairing something on my bike, and sleeping, of course.
On Monday 21st August, I leave again, together with Mr. Giuliano Machieraldo, from the CAI of Aosta. He supplies me with some bike materials and accompanies me as far as Ollomont. After a steep, but short, ascent towards a ‘malga’, 

we descend towards Aosta, which we avoid taking an almost horizontal dirt lane above.
It is a very pleasant stretch, at an altitude of about 800 metres, which ‘exploits’ what has been built for an hydraulic system maintenance. I enter the Valpelline, a very famous area for ski-alpinism. I stay overnight in the ‘Casa San Cristoforo’, where I meet the very nice Paola, from the CAI of Olgiate. 
On hearing I’m crossing the Alps by mountain bike, she wants to knows more about it and I tell her my journey in detail. She finds it fascinating and promises to organise an evening-meeting at the CAI of Olgiate. (And she is going to keep her promise: this evening-meeting is taking place on 11th February 2006).
The day after, I entrust her with my luggage: and that helps me very much. In fact from Ollomont I pass through the Doues tunnel, then head for Couchepache, and from here to Col of Malatra. It is a very long ascent, of almost 2,000 metres, and without the precious help from Paola I would’nt have reached my destination, before the dark.
Fine weather is back. The tunnel crossing - 800 metres in the dark - is very exciting, and just after going out, the majestic Mount Emilius appears.

Afterwards, there is a beautiful descent towards the bottom of the valley which takes to the Colle of San Gran Bernardo; after a few kilometres along the State Road I get to the beginning of the big ascent of the Malatra.
I slowly cycle towards the pasture of Tsa de merdeux (a name suitable to this place: the valley is full of cattle excrements!). After crossing the valley, I can go on my way just pushing my bicycle up: it is an hard work, but I’m used to it. 
The last 100 metres are really steep. I have to ascent three times: at first carryng my front bag, then pushing my bike up, and at last carryng my big back bag. It takes me 1 hour and 20 minutes, but it’s worth doing: on the col - while it is snowing - the Mont Blanc appears magnificent, although its summit is covered with clouds. 

I descent to the Bonatti Hut. To get there, cycling is impossibile just for a little stretch. The building is modern. Inside the hut very beautiful pictures of the famous rock-climber have been hanged on the walls.
After having dinner, I have some troubles with the the coin-shower and I have to wash myself with the cold water ( aargh!). Anyway, the starry night is wonderful, as well as the following morning is perfect for the pictures of the Mont Blanc...

I descend the Ferret Valley, and get to the suburbs of Courmayeur. In the local supermarket I buy a bottle of white wine for the evening; and so I add another kilo to my heavy luggage! 
I go up the Ferret Valley, and notice too many cars moving along the street towards the Lake Combai: luckily, I get early to the bars! 
After a short while slope up to the 15%, compelles me to follow a zig zag on the lane. A Frenchman incites me, shouting "C’est le plus fort, c’est le meilleur!". Is it true ? He looked sincere....Of course, my luggage commands respect even to the most expert bikers. 
Later, in the hut, I make friens with two nice, pretty English girls, from London: I sleep with them in a small room, avoiding to stay with other fifty people in the dormitory. Maybe, we’ll meet again,somewhere.

I go on, along the path going up to the Col de Chevanne, and the very beautiful descent towards La Thuile, along the hard ascent to the Colle di S. Carlo, and, the following endless forest lanes at an altitude of 1.000 metres higher than the main valley: so far, everything is ok. But, when I get to the hamlet of Le Crete, I find out that the paths going down to Valgrisenche have disappeared. So, I am compelled to go down backwards in the main valley, as far as Arvier, under the rain again.
The local hotels are very expensive, and at the inn, where I decide to have dinner - you can just have pizzas tonight! A really bad evening... The day after (26th August) a bright day fortifies my spirit. I get to the Val di Rheme, afterwards to the Valsavarenche and at last to Pont. There are just few houses, one camping, and two hotels, here. I am at the foot of Gran Paradiso. It is a magic place, where only few tourists spend the night. I celebrate my going out from Val d’Aosta over a bottle of red wine.
Now the Royal Hunting Path is waiting for me: it leads to the Nivolet Cross, the harpin bends, built with great skill, are very steep! They are very suitable for horses, and not for bikes, certainly ...

A wonderful passage, through the plains of Nivolet, allows me to reach the Città di Chivasso Hut, and to come back in Piemonte again, along the asphalt road, while it’s raining harder than ever.

On 28th August, I take a day of rest: I go up to the nice Muzio Hut, where the guests are cheered by the ‘Amici della Pietra’ Alpine Choir. I talk to the hut Manager, who, very kindly, allows me to use his PC and suggests a possible passage through the Lanzo Valleys, as an alternative to the Colle della Crocetta.
On leaving the Val D’Aosta, I have an only desire: to come back here very soon!
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Clubs and associations may contact the author for slides conference in English language about Alpibike2005 writing an e-mail to contatti.alpibike@bike8000.it   .