Alpibike2005 - from Ceresole Reale to Crissolo
On Monday 29th August - after my day of rest - I leave again from Cresole. The weather is dull. I have decided to avoid the Passo della Crocetta, and prefer the Colle della Paglia, as I believe it easier, but my choice is going to be a colossal blunder!
After I have left my heavy luggage in Locana (from here Mr. Matteo Aires of the Viù Alpine Club - very kindly - is taking it to its destination), I go up the long valley, at first on the road, and then on a good path, and reach Alpetto through very muddly stretchs.
Here the path mark is very failing, and just few - and already faded - painted signes and a few cairns lead me to the pasture, below the mountain, which appears grassy, and very steep in its final part.
The hill, which leads here, is turning out to be the most difficult one I have crossed so far.
The path is almost not existent, the gradient is very steep, and I slip down a few times through the rhododendrons.
At 5 p.m., after 6 hours of walk with bike uplift - without having any lunch - I get to the narrow mountain pass. Since large threatening clouds are coming, and I am on a narrow grassy ridge, I quicken going down the Lanzo side (there are so many path marks here!).
Then, I go down on foot for one hour, and get to the Sanctuary of Ciavanis, and here, at last, I can mount my bike again, after repairing a puncture. My friend Matteo has waited for me, till 15 minutes ago. He was very worried and about to call for the Alpine Rescue!
At 7 p.m. I’m in Chialamberto, and, after a short while, my friend is arriving by car. He drives me to Viù, where I meet Mr. Vittorio Barbotto, the President of the local Alpine Club. I also meet Mr. Vittorio Lazzarino, from Casale Monferrato - that is joining me for the next two days.
Indeed, I can’t suggest the crossing I have chosen: the Colle of Perascritta is surely better, since at least the whole descent is on a mountain dirty road, but there is still to try the Orco side uphill.
Now, the magnificent alpine roads of Piemonte follow to the paths. The first road leads Vittorio and me on the Colombardo,
where we meet Mr. Roberto Follis and Mr. Germano Croce, from the Alpine Club of Susa; we have fun together and also a sunbath. Afterwards, the descent begins...
...and I have a puncture, caused by a 8 cm. nail: I wonder how such a nail could be here, in such a waste land, and at such an altitude!
We spend the evening in Susa, at the President’s - Mr. Giovanni Alemanno - House. He has injured his ankle, but looks smart, anyway. The evening is very enjoyable and worth remembering, and we drink very good Barbera wine and Grappas...
I wonder why - but maybe it’s obvious! - the day after, on the Colle delle Finestre, my legs don't work very well, although I don’t have my heavy luggage (which has been kindly taken as far as the Sestriere).
Anyway, I go up, at my leisure, the countless harpin bends, which lead me from the 500 metres of Susa to the 2.170 metres of the Colle, through which the 2005 Giro d’Italia has passed, in its decisive leg.
Mr. Roberto Bergese, from the CAI of Moncalieri, has come and met us. After lunch, he and Vittorio leave me, and I go on my way alone, in a natural environment which is getting more and more similar to the one described by the great Italian writer Dino Buzzati, in his novel ‘Il Deserto dei Tartari’. I get as far as the Colle dell’Assietta, and from here along the ‘endless’ crest, which leads to the Sestriere.
The resort is almost deserted; they are bulding the Olympic Village for the next Winter Olympic Games, to be held in 2006. Luckily, I stay overnight in a ‘Casa per Ferie’ (a sort of an hostel).
Only 10 days to go to the arrival of my wonderful journey!
A very beautiful sun ‘says hello’ to me in Valle Argentera, but black heavy clouds are coming , and it starts raining below the Colle della Longia. From here, a very long descent, very hard for bikes, leads me to Ghigo. I have ridden in the rain along the whole descent, and I get - wet and covered with mud - to the hotel.
Ghigo is the first Waldensian place I ride through. Here, there is only a Waldensian Church and not a Catholic one, as it is usual. Herds of cattle often pass through the village, going to the pasture.
I find here - at last - a well-stocked cycle shop, where I buy a new bike-computer, since my old one has broken, during the descent from the Nivolet to Ceresole.
I have chosen to follow a path, that takes me to the Lake Lauson, up a long dirty road , afterwards a mule-track leads me to a long crossing, as far as the Col de Lazarà. Enchanting clearings precede this pass, from which I cycle down to Pramollo, where I get, just while the first big drops of rain are falling.
The weather is getting worse, but it still allows me to cross the mountain pass of the Vaccera,
and that of Paesana, just in time to see there the beginning of the Vespa Motor-Cycle Show.
Since today should be a day of rest and instead I’ve done 57 Kilometres all the same… I go up to Crissolo by the bus!
I have reached the place where the Italian Alpine Club was founded in 1863: a large plaque is put up in memory of this event, and even the hotel I stayed in has been called ‘Club Alpino Italiano’. So much CAI, indeed!
Unfortunately, my brakes are worn out and compel me to hitch-hike back to Paesana, where a very kind shop-keeper opens again his shop at 7.40, for me!
Indeed, I’ve found that telling the magic words "I’ve been pedalling from Trieste" is enough and everyone puts himself out for me.
7 days to the arrival! I almost have the sensation to smell the sea-air. Will I make it on time?
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